Part 3 - Wed Set: Basic Terminology Every Groom Needs To Know

by Mia Bolaris-Forget (Staff Writer NYCityWeddings)

Just because your getting married doesn’t mean you can’t still be part of the Jet Set.
In fact, your wedding is the perfect venue to show off your sense of style and savvy. Formal occasions no doubt have traditionally outlined “rules” and “regulations” but that doesn’t mean you can’t allow your personality to shine through. But first you must understand the dynamics of debonair formalwear.

As you may have already guessed, it all starts with the fit. Make sure you are fit to be tying the knot. Once you’ve determined the time and type of event, you are free to choose from the various appropriate styles suiting each. Try on your tux or suit (including shirt and shoes) and make sure it suits the following criteria.

With arms at your sides, and fingers extended, make sure the hem of your jacked grazes the tip of your middle finger. The sleeve should reach the top of your hand, and your shirt cuff should stick out just a half and inch past your jacket sleeve. All formal shirts, (unless the wedding is outdoors and casual), should have long sleeves (even in summer); trousers should kiss the heel of your shoe in the back and break slightly over the tops of your shoes in front. Double-breasted jackets, (because of where they button and the overlap) tend to draw attention downward toward your middle, probably best suited for taller, slender men. You can achieve a more elegant contour by adding extra padding to the shoulders and tapering the waist a bit.

From conventional bow tie and tails to contemporary Khakis with shirt and blazer, guys get some handsome options.

· Morning Coat or Cutaway: This classic design is ideal for very formal daytime affairs. Jackets (otherwise known as coats) are generally available in black or gray and feature a single button at the waist and a wide tail at the back. Traditionally a morning coat is worn with a winged-collared dress shirt, an ascot (wide tie), and striped slacks. Want to step up the look a bit. Consider adding gloves, spats, top hat and if you’re the daring type, an accompanying walking stick. For a less formal look replace the ascot with a more modern tie.

· Stroller Coat: An adaptation of the morning coat that generally sits at hip level. This particular version is complemented very well by a fancy vest (waistcoat).

· Dinner Jacket: This type of jacket is generally known by most as a sport coat features either a peaked or shawl lapel (collar) usually offers a more relaxed fit and is great for formal, semi-formal and even “casual” events that are not considered black tie. Available in a variety of colors including white or ivory, it’s an ideal choice for warmer climates, earlier affairs, and is favored as an appropriate substitute to the traditional tux. Furthermore, this type of jacket is multi-faceted, as it can readily and easily be transformed from formal to casual and can be worn just as effectively with traditional (black) tuxedo trousers as it can with khakis and a business shirt or jeans and a t-shirt.

· Tails: The epitome of traditional elegance, especially as it relates to black tie and the essence of formality. Generally a jacket with tails is shorter in the front with two longer tails hanging from the back. Customarily this jacket of distinction is worn with suspenders (braces), a white pique shirt, vest (waistcoat), and bow tie.

· Traditional Tux or Black Tie: Best for the formality of an evening affair, generally after 6 p.m., but can be worn at a very formal daytime event after noon. Traditionally speaking, the most classic tuxedos are either black or gray and feature a single button. Lapels can range from shawl to peak or notched. Trousers should be equally as elegant and that means flat front (or one-pleat), and suspenders. Choose either a vest (waistcoat) or cummerbund (but not both) and a bow tie. Savvy sophisticates can also opt for a white vest and white tie.

· Black Tie Millennium Style: More of an evening suit, this tuxedo features a satin or grosgrain trim on the lapel and the pant legs. While there are no steadfast rules, this tux has been coupled with a black shirt, a regular tie and a belt in lie of suspenders.

· Dress Suit: Ideal for a dressy but not necessarily formal wedding. Dark, regal colors are most ideal, especially if you’re the groom, a member of the wedding party or a very close family member of guest (though this look will suit most anyone). Stick with colors like black, charcoal (dark gray), or navy. Add a boldly colored solid or subtly patterned tie to spice and dress it up. Guests may (also) choose to spice up a suit with a subtly stripped or patterned shirt.

Get Hot Around The Collar:

One of the most “neglected” but essential features of your tux or suit is the lapel, especially for grooms and bridal party members whose lapel will sport your boutonniere. Before sticking your neck out on a choice, a heads up on your choices.

· Notch Lapel: A V-shaped cut pointing inward toward the area where the collar and lapel meet. This design highlights the horizontal and should be avoided by shorter and more portly men.

· Peaked Lapel: A narrow lapel featuring two points of fabric on either side that point upward and offer limited space between the lapel and collar.

· Shawl Collar: A rounded lapel that rolls back in a tapering line. Double-shawl collars reveal a satin lining. Quite frequently features a distinguishing satin stripe or contrasting piping….and a great look for most any man.